Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness, 7/17/2022, National Geographic Venture
Aboard the
National Geographic Venture
Alaska
We began our first full day in Southeast Alaska in Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness by exploring the Endicott Arm fjord and Dawes Glacier. In the wee hours of the morning, we crossed into Holkham Bay, the entrance to this incredible wilderness area, and we proceeded to spend our pre-breakfast time admiring the massive granite walls and the succession of forest as we searched for wildlife.
As National Geographic Venture approached within two miles of the face of Dawes Glacier, we decided to drop our fleet of Zodiacs and explore the icebergs while getting a water level view of this spectacular tidewater glacier. Harbor seals, artic terns, a harbor porpoise, and amazing calving events rounded out our morning.
Raised in the mountains of Crested Butte, Colorado, John has always been a “child of nature,” where the natural world around him was life’s classroom. After graduating from Colorado State University with degrees in Speech Communication and Biology, ...
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This morning National Geographic Venture transited narrow channels, past seemingly countless tree-covered, uninhabited islands. Near the northeast corner of Baranof Island, we dropped anchor in Hanus Bay. All afternoon we explored Southeast Alaska’s lush, green, coastal temperate rainforest on the beautiful Lake Eva trail.
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
This morning we enjoyed our coffees and teas in front of the awe-inspiring Johns Hopkins Glacier, deep inside Glacier Bay National Park. Flocks of black-legged kittiwakes swarmed the glacier's face, perusing the churned nutrients of the glacial freshwater runoff. Harbor seals lounged in the morning light, seemingly unbothered by the intermittent outbursts of the glacier. The booming sounds of the glacier were dubbed “White Thunder” by the local Huna Tlingit tribe, whose original settlements were located near the present-day equivalent of the park’s entrance. After lovely glacial views, we all enjoyed brunch aboard as we moved southward down the park in search of wildlife. Sailing through Russell Cut and around to Gloomy Knob, we observed such species as bear, wolf, killer whale, humpback, bald eagle, harbor seal, mountain goat, common merganser, harlequin duck, surf scoter, and American crow —oh my! A truly once-in-a-wildlife-time experience; the quintessential Alaska experience! For the afternoon we headed to South Marble Island, where we had amazing views of hauled out sea lions, sea otters, tufted puffins, a horned puffin, common murres, and marbled murrelets. The bow was certainly at capacity with all guests eager to get views of the action. After South Marble Island we transitioned toward Bartlett Cove, home to the park headquarters. We led a variety of walks in the area for all to enjoy after a lovely day of cruising the bay.