A breezy, misty morning greeted us as we anchored in Portage Bay in front of the small, coastal Alaskan town of Haines. Quintessential Southeast Alaskan weather brought wind-whipped low clouds, swirling and broken mid-level clouds, and small little pockets of blue with glimpses of the high mountain peaks surrounding the valley. Located on a long peninsula between Lynn Canal and the Chilkat River, Haines is the self-billed “Adventure Capital of Alaska.” Haines is also the historic marine terminus of trading trails into the interior of the continent. We disembarked National Geographic Sea Bird, riding the wind and waves to the town pier as we prepared for the variety of adventures the day would bring.
5/14/2024
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National Geographic Sea Lion
Cascade Creek and Frederick Sound
Today was classic southeastern Alaska. A light rain greeted us as we woke and continued until we retired to bed. But rather than being annoying, it magically transformed the jaw-dropping landscape to a higher level. Three hikes were offered: casual, moderate, and strenuous. No one stayed aboard, all donned appropriate gear and humbly walked through the majestic coastal rain forest, closely observed by stately centuries-old Sitka spruce and western hemlock, as well as a diverse assemblage of understory shrubs, mosses, lichens, and fungi. Many of us also saw the often-overlooked rough skinned newt. The afternoon consisted of cruising for wildlife through Fredericks Sound and briefly watching a single humpback whale. During the mid-afternoon, we listened to two presentations on whales. Of course, a pod of Dahl’s porpoises ‘interrupted’ one of them, but in a most welcome manner. Several swam alongside the ship, affording a great view for those watching out the lounge windows. And before cocktails and recap, we encountered a solitary humpback that was actively diving and showing its distinctive fluke. After dinner, we participated in a trivia contest with subjects ranging from Alaskan history, natural history, ship characteristics, and the staff. It was a lively way to end the day.