Idaho Inlet
The morning found us at Fox Creek, at the Northern portion of Idaho Inlet, just 15 nautical miles from the entrance to Glacier Bay National Park. A rainy, blustery morning, with a southeasterly wind of 25-plus knots didn’t stop kayakers from exploring the shoreline. Hikers eagerly muddied their boots, following ancient bear tracks along a small stream and up into a vast bog meadow. Those opting for a long-duration hike were rewarded with a stunning hillside view of the sea through mangled and wind-swept trees.
Afternoon cruising proved fruitful as the M.V. Sea Lion traveled up Inian Cut. Playful sea otters speckled the beds of kelp surrounding the Inian islands. This handful of rocky, colorful islands houses Northern (Steller's) sea lions, juvenile glaucous-winged gulls and pelagic cormorants – but just barely. Vacant space is sparse here, where hundreds of these tawny-colored, barking sea lions reside. Their numbers here have increased in recent years, from less than 10 on average, to the hundreds we saw today. Elsewhere in Alaska this species is considered endangered. Juvenile males could be seen and heard. Practicing a mating technique known as posturing, they rear their heads – a behavior that would have been followed by fighting had this been the breeding season. Others entertained us with somersaults and flips in the choppy water surrounding the islands.
Our afternoon lecture was happily postponed by three orcas, our first sighting of killer whales. We followed close in their wake for a few miles, speculating about what they were seeking and attempting to obtain photographs that would help us identify the pod and the individuals. A Peregrine Falcon circled low over our ship and Fork-tailed Storm-Petrels and Red-necked Phalaropes danced on the water. Luck continued into the evening as we were greeted by a group of five humpbacks whales feeding. Looking directly down from the bow, one could gauge the incredible size of one animal as it dove just feet from the ship. The serenity of the waters surrounding Point Adolphus was broken only by the rhythmic and heavy breaths of these animals, and by constant camera clicks. Single blows could be seen in the distance. The group near the ship was engaged in cooperative feeding behavior, working together in a perfectly synchronized chorus line. Not far from the open ocean, this area of converging currents and upwellings is extremely rich in marine food sources, and draws these whales back year after year.
The day was full of the extremes typical of Southeast Alaska. A windy morning unfolded into a calm evening. Our memories are dotted with the incredible variety of native wildlife displaying their behaviors, strength and grace.
