Our Expedition Leader gently woke us this morning with a warning to don our sunglasses – not only was it bright and sunny outside, but we were surrounded by the blues and whites of the icebergs of LeConte Glacier, south of Petersburg. Adding contrast to the landscape, a group of 5-7 Orcas (Killer Whales) were sighted less than a mile and a half away. A Bald Eagle sat perched on an iceberg. Marbled Murrelets, Pigeon Guillemots, and three species of gull wheeled and called. And all before breakfast!

After eating we slipped into the Zodiacs for a close up look at the exquisite ice carvings of blue and silver. The water was glassy calm, creating wavering reflections of every hue. As we prepared to return to the boat, a voice crackled over the radio – “Orcas at nine o’clock!” We drifted transfixed as their sleek forms moved swiftly towards shore, black and white silhouetted against the icebergs. A priceless moment. And a reminder that there are no instant replays in Alaska, no guarantees. If you don’t invest the time in looking, then you won’t see.

With such an incredible beginning, the rest of the day had no choice but to follow suit – flightseeing tours, kayaking, Petersburg exploration, and a fascinating presentation by the Alaska Whale Foundation (AWF). Researcher Andy Szabo updated us on their investigations into bubble-net feeding and cow-calf relationships and also shared his experience last August freeing a humpback whale from a crab-trap line that had become lodged in its baleen. It was difficult to assist the whale as it dove beneath the surface each time they approached it. The AWF solved the problem using a special cutting tool shaped like a three-pronged grappling hook. First they lowered it into the water and circled the area until the hook caught the crab line. Then they backed away, allowing the hook to slowly ride up the line until it was lying next to the calf’s mouth. With a quick acceleration the sharpened edges of the hook cut the rope and the whale was free! A wonderfully positive story to end the night, and a reminder of the value of supporting foundations such as the AWF.